A Hidden ‘Niagara Falls’ Deep In The Heart Of Sarawak

People who have braved the 10-hour rigorous journey from Bintulu, in the central region of Sarawak, to the O'ong Pejik waterfall claim it is Malaysia’s “most magnificent and majestic” falls.

Standing at six metres (or 20 feet) tall and cascading down to the Linau River, the rushing water creates a fine mist-like spray over the river's surface, forming a stunning panorama reminiscent of the famous Niagara Falls on the border between the United States and Canada.

However, getting to Lusong Laku is no easy task, as experienced firsthand by the writer who participated in a recent media programme in Sarawak, organised by the Malaysian Handicraft Development Corporation (Kraftangan Malaysia).

The 200-kilometre-long journey from Bintulu to Lusong Laku took about 10 hours, with two-thirds of that time spent navigating unpaved, pothole-ridden logging roads that wind along riverbanks and steep terrains.

 

The exhaustion from the journey vanished as soon as the vehicle ferrying the journalists approached the Sungai Linau area, with the roar of the O’ong Pejik waterfall clearly audible. And, all their aches and pains were forgotten as soon as the stunning falls came into view.

Lusong Laku longhouse headman Tinggang Jati, 43, said O’ong Pejik in the Penan language means waterfall.

“But outsiders call it Wong Pejik,” he said, adding, “As you can see, this waterfall is unique due to its natural form which is not found anywhere else in the country. The water plunges from a great height and crashes onto the river surface, creating a mist-like spray.”

Besides O'ong Pejik, there are three other waterfalls in the surrounding area, namely O'ong Buvung, O'ong Lakeik Bra'an and O'ong Bem, he added. All three are located downstream of Sungai Linau.

“From O'ong Pejik, it takes over 30 minutes to walk to O'ong Buvung, while O'ong Lakeik Bra'an and O'ong Bem can be reached in about half an hour,” he said.

 

Tinggang said O'ong Pejik is a prime spot for fishing during the dry season when residents and visitors alike would cast their nets to catch freshwater fish.

“Among the fish found here are empurau, semah, baung kuning and ikan batu. For the people of Sungai Linau, fishing is a source of income,” he said.

According to Tinggang, the O'ong Pejik waterfall was well-known in the 1980s and even attracted foreign tourists who came to enjoy the beauty of the falls.

However, he noted that in recent times, the number of visitors has decreased, possibly due to the long journey and poor road conditions.

“But we still get visitors from within the country as well as locals who organise trips to O'ong Pejik.

“However, I sincerely hope our government recognises it as a gem and turns it into a recreational and tourist destination to draw domestic and international visitors,” he said, urging the government to improve the infrastructure especially the roads leading to the waterfall.

The area is also in need of facilities such as toilets as well as boats and kayaks to allow visitors to explore the beauty of the falls.

 

As for accommodation options, a few homestays are currently available including the Sungai Buang Homestay located not far from O'ong Pejik.

This two-story house has six bedrooms and five bathrooms, with packages that include breakfast, lunch and dinner. The house also has a kitchen for those who prefer to cook their own meals.

Its owner John Mering, 60, said he started offering the homestay service in March 2022 but operated it on a part-time basis as he was still working as an administrative assistant at Sekolah Kebangsaan Tegulang in Murum, not far from Lusong Laku.

“But after retiring in October last year, I’ve been giving my full attention to this homestay,” he said.

John said his homestay has been receiving a steady stream of guests since its opening, adding the staff of several government departments and agencies have also come there to conduct programmes.

“We get visitors from Sarawak and from outside… some come here for fishing activities while others come to enjoy the beauty of nature and visit the (inactive) volcano crater (in Lusong Laku),” he added.

Visitors also have the opportunity to buy handicrafts made by the Penan community residing in the Lusong Laku longhouse.

The womenfolk in particular are actively involved in producing various creatively woven rattan products such as backpacks, blowpipes and mats.

With the guidance and help of Kraftangan Malaysia, their products are marketed in various places including Kuching and Peninsular Malaysia.