Unravelling The Charm Of Sumba, The Green Savannah Island

Known as Pulau Seribu Bukit (Island of a Thousand Hills) for its stunning landscape of hills and grassland savannas, Sumba is situated in Indonesia's southernmost province. The island boasts a unique natural beauty that remains largely untouched by modernisation.

Overlooking the Indian Ocean, Sumba is bordered by Timor Island to the east and the Australian continent to the south and southeast.

Most residents work as farmers and livestock breeders, with a predominant Christian population that also practises the ancestral belief system known as Marapu. Additionally, there are Muslim residents on the island.

Unaware of Sumba's existence until recently, this writer was drawn in by a travel agency’s social media post and booked a five-day, four-night package last May to personally experience the island's beauty.

 

Reaching this island is no easy task. From Kuala Lumpur International Airport Terminal 2, I had to fly to Bali, Indonesia, and spend the night there before catching a morning domestic flight from Denpasar to Waikabubak on Sumba Island.

While waiting for the flight to Waikabubak at Ngurah Rai International Airport's domestic terminal in Denpasar, I was pleasantly surprised to meet a few fellow Malaysians. It turned out there were 11 other women who had booked the same travel package as I did.

Our group was the only Malaysian contingent on that flight. Noticing we were from Malaysia, several Sumba locals on the plane approached us and asked about our purpose for visiting their island.

 “Enjoy your time here," they said warmly when we shared that we were visiting as tourists.

The flight took about an hour, and we landed at Lede Kalumbang Airport, a small airport in the Sumba Barat Daya (Southwest Sumba) region. We received a warm welcome from Erra, a Malaysian representative from The Fadaelo Project travel agency, who would be overseeing our trip.

 

Travelling in two SUVs, our group was taken to our first stop—a small eatery to satisfy our growing hunger. The meal of chicken noodles and es jeruk kelapa (coconut water mixed with lime and ice) was wonderfully refreshing.

On the way to our hotel, we stopped by Talasi Estate to enjoy coffee and cashew biscuits. This estate is well-known for its coffee and cashew production.

There, Erra introduced us to Samat and Jimi, two locals from Sumba who would be our guides, photographers, and ‘bodyguards’ throughout the journey.

Along the way, we passed through villages, and the high-roofed houses captured our attention. Samat, our driver, explained that in the past, food was stored on the roof beams to preserve it using smoke from the kitchen. To prevent smoke from filling the house, the roofs were built high.

 

Weekuri Lake was naturally formed by waves from the Indian Ocean crashing against the coral rock cliffs.

The name ‘Weekuri’ comes from the Sumbanese language, combining two syllables: ‘wee’ meaning water and ‘kuri’ meaning splash.

Facing the vast open sea, this lake is a must-visit destination for tourists, with its clear blue water and beautiful landscape—ideal for relaxing and unwinding, even if just lounging on the rocky shores.

Our group, however, spent the afternoon of our first day on Sumba Island relaxing and swimming in its refreshing waters.

 

As dusk approached, we left Weekuri Lake for our next destination—Mandorak Beach, which was about a 10-minute drive away.

We arrived at the beach just as twilight set in, with the sun dipping below the western horizon and casting a warm orange glow over the Indian Ocean, as if inviting us to capture the memory.

Two opposing rocky cliffs curved from the beach into the sea, resembling a horseshoe, with their tips forming a natural archway. Fishing boats drifted through this ‘gateway,’ perfectly framing the sunset panorama and leaving us in awe of nature’s artistry.

We eagerly captured this breathtaking view, knowing that such a sight might be a rare   encounter.

The cheerful sounds of local children playing caught our attention. It was clear they were very friendly and wanted to chat with us.

 

We began our second day in Sumba with a visit to Waikelo Sawah Waterfall, a tiered water dam flowing from a small cave at the foot of a hill.

This small dam was established in 1976 to generate electricity and irrigate the nearby rice fields.

The heavy cascade of water from the cave prevented visitors from swimming there, but we were more than satisfied to take photos in the tranquil surroundings.

Afterward, we continued our walk to our next destination: Weekacura Waterfall.

 

The two-kilometre (km) journey was far from tiring, as our eyes were captivated by the natural beauty surrounding us—lush greenery and a flowing water channel on our right, while on the opposite side, we were treated to expansive views of rice fields stretching into the distance.

The morning atmosphere was incredibly serene. Farmers busily tended their fields, and uniformed schoolchildren made their way to school. Each greeted us with warm smiles in return for our greetings.

After nearly half an hour of walking, we finally arrived at Weekacura Waterfall, nestled amid rice paddies and other crops.

By the time we arrived, it was nearly noon, and the roar of the waterfall created a soothing ambience, offering relief from the midday heat.

The pool formed by the cascading water seemed to beckon us to cool off by wading in, joining a few cheerful children who were splashing about. The water was crystal clear, displaying a lovely green hue.

The large trees surrounding the pool served as a playground for the children, who swung from the branches before leaping into the refreshing water below.

 

After enjoying lunch at Soemba Coffee & Resto in Waikabubak, we headed to the Prai Ijing Traditional Village in West Sumba.

Samat took on the role of ‘tour leader,’ leading us forward. Upon arriving at the entrance, he kissed a stone carving shaped like a horse and informed us that this act is a must for visitors wishing to enter the traditional village.

Without hesitation, we followed suit, with some placing their palms on the stone and kissing the back of their hands. I simply rested my forehead on the stone horse.

Our antics were captured by Samat, who smiled as if hiding something.

We then continued our journey until we reached the centre of the village. Not far from there, we spotted a burial site adorned with impressive megalithic stones standing around the area.

Some of us took the opportunity to rent traditional Sumbanese attire, complete with hand and head decorations, before taking photos with the village as our backdrop.

We were also allowed to enter a traditional house to see its interior. Not only was the house made of bamboo, but the beds and seating areas were also constructed from natural materials.

 

After spending more than an hour at the traditional village, we continued our adventurous itinerary toward Wairinding Hill in East Sumba.

This tourist destination features rolling grasslands, where locals often bring their livestock, particularly horses, to graze. Horses hold significant importance in Sumbanese culture and can be seen in most village homes. According to Samat, horses are also given as dowries in marriages in Sumba.

The beauty of the grasslands at Wairinding Hill changes with the seasons—lush green during the rainy season and golden yellow in the summer.

We arrived in the late afternoon, allowing us to witness the stunning sunset from the peak of Wairinding. The beauty of nature at twilight mesmerised us, and we only began our journey to our accommodation as night fell.

After checking into our hotel in East Sumba, Samat shared the story behind the ‘stone horse kissing’ tradition while laughing.

It turned out that he had playfully tricked us, and Erra, who was aware there was no such tradition, had colluded with him to let us be fooled by Samat.

 

On the third day on the island, we were taken to a weaving centre.

Most Sumbanese textiles feature animal motifs that hold significance in their society, such as horses, roosters, and deer, all woven using the Sumba Ikat technique.

Typically, the woven patterns carry various messages and stories about the community's life, including tales of family and domestic life.

Sumba Ikat is produced using dyes derived from plants: the roots of the morinda plant for red, the wuira or indigo plant for blue, mud for brown, and yellow wood for yellow.

 

After shopping at the weaving centre, we continued our journey to Tanggedu Waterfall. We passed through refreshing green landscapes, including savannah grasslands, hills, and rice fields.

The journey took nearly two and a half hours, traversing various road conditions—from paved highways to dirt paths, and finally rocky off-road trails in the interior.

Upon reaching the parking area near the waterfall, we hopped onto the motorcycles of local residents who were ready to take us the short distance to the waterfall. The ride was brief, lasting only about 15 minutes.

However, we then had to descend a series of stairs into the forest before climbing over large rocks. At this point, the roar of the waterfall grew louder, blended with the calls of forest birds.

 The journey was indeed challenging, but the breathtaking view that awaited us made us forget our fatigue from climbing the rocks. Before us stood an eight-metre-high waterfall, captivating our attention with its sheer beauty.

The cascading water poured into a pool that beckoned us to cool off. The refreshing chill of the waterfall was invigorating, quenching our thirst with the young coconut water sold by local residents.

 

After a refreshing time in the water, our group made our way to Purukambera Beach for lunch.

The stretch of white sand, bordered by pine trees, offered the perfect setting for a picnic. We spread out our mat and savoured our meal in the soothing shade.

Staying true to the island's charm, the beach was also flanked by expansive savannah grasslands, providing us with ample opportunities to capture memorable moments through our camera lenses.

 

From Purukambera, we headed to Tenau Hill. The road twisted and turned like a serpent, guiding us higher above sea level as our vehicle navigated each curve until we finally reached the summit.

The breathtaking panorama left us in awe, with the afternoon sunlight illuminating the undulating savannah grasslands, crafting a truly mesmerising landscape.

Before we realised it, dusk had settled in. The sun began to dip behind the hills, painting the Sumbanese sky with various shades of orange, ranging from golden to deep crimson.

 

On our fourth day in Sumba, we travelled to the island's western region. The 200-km journey took five hours due to the challenging terrain.

Despite the lengthy travel time, the journey was worthwhile, offering us the chance to experience the vibrant culture of the Sumbanese people during our stops.

It was a common sight to see locals riding horses, whether returning from the fields or heading to various destinations.

We finally arrived at our accommodation—a resort perched on a hillside overlooking the Indian Ocean—to spend our last night on the island.

 

Four days passed in a flash, with many natural attractions on the island still unexplored, leaving me yearning to return to the island.

However, the absence of direct flights from Kuala Lumpur could dampen that desire, as I prefer minimising travel time.

This limited accessibility may also explain Sumba’s relatively low profile among foreign tourists compared to its neighbour, Flores Island.

Hopefully, AirAsia's expansion in East Nusa Tenggara will soon include Sumba as a direct destination from Kuala Lumpur, strengthening connections between Malaysians and the people of Sumba.

With its pristine beauty, free from commercial development, Sumba has immense potential as an alternative tourist destination in the ASEAN region.

 

Translated by Salbiah Said