Uplifting The Legacy Of The Kebaya: A Tradition At Risk Of Fading

"Why the kebaya, and not other traditional attire?"

This question arises in discussions surrounding the nomination of the kebaya for the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) in 2023.

According to the Director of the Melaka State Department of Arts and Culture (JKKN) Ezlina Alias, the kebaya is a traditional Malay garment characterised by its front-opening design, typically worn with brooches and paired with a sarung.

 “In general, the kebaya refers to a popular traditional outfit in Malaysia, alongside the baju kurung, and has undergone a long evolution shaped by the cultural exchanges of various ethnicities over the past 600 years, particularly during the era of the Melaka Sultanate," she told Bernama recently.

TRADITIONAL ATTIRE OF VARIOUS NATIONS

Elaborating further, Ezlina said the kebaya is not only a source of pride for the Malay community but also for the Baba Nyonya, Chetty, and Portuguese communities. Additionally, neighbouring countries such as Indonesia and Thailand have adopted the kebaya as part of their traditional national fashion styles.

Importantly, it should be noted that Malaysia boasts over ten distinct types of kebaya, including the Kebaya Perlis, Pahang, Johor-Riau, and Kota Bharu, each featuring unique characteristics and advantages.

"The kebaya transcends cultures and religions, making it a truly universal outfit. People are very proud of the kebaya, and in earlier films, this fashion trend was well represented, with icons like Puan Sri Saloma and Noor Kumalasari popularising the kebaya in films they starred in. Now, the tradition is being carried on by actresses like Nabila Huda," she said.

Unfortunately, this traditional outfit, which was once worn by all groups, including the nobility and commoners alike, and often served as everyday attire, has increasingly become relegated to cultural stage performances.  

The craftsmanship and authenticity of the kebaya are fading with time. Ezlina acknowledged that several factors, including the shift towards more casual Western attire, have contributed to this decline, stressing the urgent need to ensure that the rich cultural heritage of the Nusantara region is preserved and passed down to future generations.

“That’s why JKKN Melaka, in collaboration with the state government, is actively organising various programmes to highlight the importance of preserving the kebaya. Among these initiatives are fashion shows in the form of theatres, discussions, and the Kebaya Festival in conjunction with the Bila Larut Malam or Melaka Nightlife programme, as part of Visit Melaka Year 2024 (VMY2024).

"If not us, then who else will popularise it? Many don’t even realise that there are over 10 different styles of kebaya, originating from various ethnic groups, including the modest cuts like the Pahang kebaya," she said.

THE AUTHENTICITY OF THE KEBAYA IS FADING

Meanwhile, Cedric Tan Chai Cheng, or better known as Baba Cedric, an Expert Adviser on Kebaya for the National Heritage Department’s nomination of the kebaya to UNESCO’s ICH, acknowledged that drastic measures must be taken to ensure the preservation and safeguarding of the authenticity of this cherished traditional attire.

Baba Cedric, a sixth-generation descendant of the Baba and Nyonya of Melaka, said efforts to preserve the authenticity of this unique heritage are timely and necessary, as the kebaya culture, though enduring, is gradually losing its authenticity.

Even more concerning is the fact that in Melaka itself, there are only two remaining Nyonya kebaya embroiderers, both in their 80s, and this legacy has no successors to preserve or revive this unique, culturally rich heritage.

"What is more disheartening is that even the Baba and Nyonya descendants themselves are becoming indifferent, thinking that simply wearing a kebaya is enough. As a result, the true essence of this attire, which is deeply rooted in proper wearing techniques—including the use of brooches, tying unsewn batik fabric, and selecting colours appropriate to age and occasion—is being lost," he explained.

He also expressed concern that what has happened to the Baju Panjang Peranakan, which can be considered extinct, could also happen to the Nyonya kebaya in terms of its authenticity, refinement, and function.

He added that while the kebaya is widely worn by people of all races, status, and ethnicities, which signifies equality, not everyone understands the true meaning of wearing the Nyonya kebaya. Most people are primarily focused on looking beautiful, being creative, and seeking convenience.

"Nowadays, the culture of wearing brooches has faded, as people no longer understand their function, merely seeing them as decorative items. The same goes for wearing sarungs—the original method involves unsewn fabric, not those with elastic bands at the waist.

"Fashion may change, but certain elements need to be preserved. When it comes to culture and heritage, we must be mindful not to be overly creative at the expense of tradition. One must understand that when a woman wears a Nyonya kebaya, it automatically transforms her demeanour, highlighting her femininity," he said, noting that he owns around 500 kebaya outfits, some over 100 years old.

KEBAYA FOR UNESCO RECOGNITION

Baba Cedric also said that one of the challenges faced today is that many individuals call themselves cultural activists but have a blurred understanding of the original meaning of the kebaya, especially the Nyonya kebaya.

He emphasised the need for ongoing, in-depth discussions about the kebaya to dispel misconceptions, especially as Malaysia works to secure UNESCO recognition for the kebaya as part of the ICH list.

According to Baba Cedric, Malaysia’s nomination was made in collaboration with Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore, and Thailand, reflecting how the kebaya represents the cultural heritage and unique identity of each of these nations.

 “The effort to nominate the kebaya to UNESCO’s ICH list began in 2022, involving five countries, with Malaysia taking the lead. This illustrates that the kebaya is widely worn by women across the Nusantara region, showcasing its broad cultural scope,” he explained.

"If the kebaya is accepted as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, it will allow us to promote this attire globally, not just within the Nusantara, and as a shared heritage rather than individual cultural artefacts. The kebaya comes in many styles, and more importantly, it highlights the grace and refinement of Nusantara women," he added.

As part of the nomination process, efforts included collecting and documenting various kebaya styles, drafting research papers, and organising workshops. Cross-cultural exchanges between countries were also conducted to gather information on the kebaya as an ancestral heritage of the Nusantara.

"This is a positive initiative as it broadens our perspective and allows us to learn about kebaya styles from other countries. Most importantly, it provides an opportunity for in-depth discussions on how we can preserve the legacy and heritage of the kebaya,” he said.

He emphasised the urgency of preservation, noting that most current practitioners are now over 45 years old.

“We must ensure this legacy is passed down to the next generation. We don't want other kebaya styles to face the same fate as the kebaya panjang or Peranakan kebaya, which have nearly vanished from everyday wear," he said.

Translated by Salbiah Said