Keeping The Nasi Ambeng Tradition Alive

By Nur Fatin Mohmad Kadenen

BATU PAHAT, Nov 14 (Bernama) — As age-old customs quietly slip from memory, a husband-and-wife duo in Kampung Parit Yaani Tengah has taken it upon themselves to revive a cherished Javanese-Malay thanksgiving tradition — serving nasi ambeng on a communal tray — and turn it into their livelihood.

At Gubok Pawon, which means ‘charcoal kitchen hut’ in Javanese, 57-year-old Juriah Saian and her husband Arsad Bardan, 62, prepare the dish in a rustic wooden hut designed to resemble an old Malay village home — a setting far removed from the bustle of town life.

“These days it’s hard to find this tradition because many of our elders are no longer with us,” Juriah said when met by Bernama recently. “When I started this business, many customers told me how much they enjoyed eating in a village atmosphere. It brings back memories — especially for those who miss this kind of environment.”

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For the Javanese community, she explained, serving nasi ambeng on a large tray is not merely about feeding guests — it represents togetherness, gratitude, and communal harmony, values that lie at the heart of Javanese culture.

“If we can’t finish everything, the leftovers are usually taken home for the whole family to enjoy. We call that nasi berkat,” she said.

“In its original concept, even if the dish wasn’t particularly tasty, what mattered most was abundance — a generous spread served on one tray,” Juriah said with a laugh. “The head of the family would usually taste just a little, and the rest would be taken home as nasi berkat.”

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Her nasi ambeng, she added, follows a family recipe passed down through generations, complete with the ‘must-have’ accompaniments – serunding, Javanese sambal goreng, fried noodles, bulu ayam salted fish, and either soy-braised chicken or ungkep, a slow-cooked Javanese classic.

The dish is served exclusively at Gubok Pawon and prepared only upon order, with each tray feeding four to six people. The couple also caters for private functions.

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Since opening in August, orders have been brisk — with bookings already filled up to Nov 2.

For the mother of four, the business is more than a source of income. It is her way of honouring the heritage of  her ancestors, a legacy she fears may disappear with time.

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For Nur Farra Fazliana Jasmani, 26, who recently held her thanksgiving ceremony and the traditional melenggang perut ritual at Gubok Pawon, the experience felt special — even though she is not of Javanese descent.

“When I learned about this tradition, I wanted to experience it for myself,” she said. “After the ceremony, everyone eats together from the same tray. It strengthens bonds and brings people closer.”

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Now heavily pregnant with her first child, Nur Farra said she intends to continue practising this tradition in the future, following the customs of her husband’s Javanese family.

-- BERNAMA