Known for its scenic beaches and fleet of pink taxis, Pangkor Island is also famous for its seafood, particularly blue-eyed anchovies or ikan bilis.
For domestic visitors, a visit to the duty-free tourist destination would not be complete without bringing home some ikan bilis or other seafood products.
But the price of the anchovies caught in the waters surrounding the island can be quite steep, reaching up to RM200 per kilogramme for premium-grade varieties such as the blue-eyed ikan bilis, making them highly sought after by local fishermen.
Recently, Bernama had the opportunity to join fisherman and blue-eyed ikan bilis trader M. Muthu on a fishing trip to catch what is often referred to as the “treasure” of Pangkor Island due to its premium quality.
The experience provided insight into the challenges faced by fishermen in landing their catch and the justification for the premium prices of these anchovies.
CHALLENGES
“The blue-eyed ikan bilis gets its name from its blue eyes. Not all ikan bilis (of this variety) have blue eyes but they are all small in size – about one centimetre long,” explained Muthu, 60, who was born and raised in Pangkor Island and has been an anchovy fisherman for over three decades.
On average, a daily haul of anchovies – of various sizes – comes to about 400 to 900 kilogrammes.
He said one of the main advantages of blue-eyed anchovies compared to other types is that they do not need to be cleaned before cooking as they have no bones or guts. With their mild saltiness and crisp texture, these anchovies make an excellent seasoning for various dishes.
On the day Bernama accompanied Muthu and his 20-member crew on their fishing trip, their boat left at about 5 am, navigating through the waters off Pangkor Island. Although the weather was calm, the pitch-dark sea created an eerie atmosphere.
That is the daily routine for Muthu and other fishermen, whose livelihoods rely heavily on the sea’s bounty.
“We go out to sea every day from 5 to 8 am and again from 2 pm to around 8 pm. However, everything (our catch) depends on the weather. If the weather is good, we’ll have a good catch to bring back. But we don’t go out if it rains heavily because the ikan bilis schools won’t surface,” he said.
The father of three added that the fishermen, however, cannot fish “wherever we please”.
“We must comply with the regulations set by the authorities, meaning we can only cast our nets at least one nautical mile from the shore.”
BOILED ONBOARD BOAT
Muthu also related that before the adoption of modern technology, the island’s fishermen relied solely on their observation skills and experience to locate areas rich in anchovies. Today, sonar technology is used to detect schools of anchovies, making it easier to pinpoint their locations.
Once caught, the blue-eyed anchovies will be boiled for less than two minutes to decrease their saltiness.
Muthu said as the boat captain, this technology helps him to efficiently direct his crew in casting their nets.
“By using the sonar system, we not only save time but can also lower our nets seven or eight times in a single fishing session, whether in the morning or afternoon. For us, this process makes it easier to search for fish-rich areas,” he said.
On average, Muthu’s daily haul of anchovies – of various sizes – comes to about 400 to 900 kilogrammes.
“Once caught, we immediately boil them for less than two minutes, after which the water is drained out. This process helps reduce their saltiness,” he said, adding as far as he knew, this boiling method is unique to Pangkor fishermen.
Fishermen are actively processing blue-eyed anchovies in the waters off Pangkor Island.
“It’s not practiced by those in other ikan bilis-producing areas such as Kedah or Sabah.”
After returning to the landing jetty, the anchovies are dried on special platforms, a process that takes at least 10 hours.
Once dried, the anchovies are graded according to their size using a special machine and then packed into 25-kilogramme packages before being sold to wholesalers and distributors at prices ranging from RM750 to RM2,000 per package, depending on the grade.
TASTY
Ikan bilis trader Oh Teck Soon, 50, meanwhile, said the blue-eyed variety from Pangkor Island is highly sought after by tourists who visit the island during festive or school holidays.
“Some claim the blue-eyed ikan bilis from other states, such as Kedah and Sabah, taste the same as those from Pangkor. But once they taste the ones from Pangkor, they usually change their minds,” he said.
The anchovies are dried on special platforms, which the process takes at least 10 hours.
Explaining the uniqueness of Pangkor Island’s blue-eyed anchovies, Oh said standard anchovies often deteriorate in quality when exposed to the environment for too long, becoming brittle and dusty.
However, this is not the case with the island’s blue-eyed anchovies, which retain their freshness and quality even after being stored.
“The only thing that changes is the colour, which may turn slightly yellowish depending on the temperature and weather. Other than that, everything else remains the same, including the taste,” he said.
Oh, a Pangkor native who has been in the business for 28 years, sells various types of anchovies but the most popular are the peeled ones.
“Apart from blue-eyed anchovies, peeled ikan bilis are also a favourite because they make cooking easier for customers,” he said.
As for their prices, Oh said they vary based on quality and grade.
“The price is mainly determined by the size and quality of the ikan bilis. In Pangkor, the smaller the ikan bilis, the higher the price,” he said.
He added Pangkor Island’s blue-eyed anchovies are not only popular among domestic visitors but are also liked by tourists from the United States, Germany, Saudi Arabia and South Africa.
