Kelupis Remains A Must-have Raya Dish In Sabah, Symbolising Shared Cultural Heritage

BEAUFORT,  March 16 (Bernama) -- For many families in Sabah, the Aidilfitri celebration would feel incomplete without kelupis, a glutinous rice delicacy wrapped in nyirik leaves that has long been a staple on the morning of Raya and a symbol of tradition among the state’s diverse communities.

In Sabah, kelupis is often regarded as the equivalent of ketupat or lemang in Peninsular Malaysia, as almost every household serves the dish to visiting guests during the festive celebration, usually accompanied by peanut sauce, rendang or other traditional dishes.

Kelupis is not associated with just one ethnic group in Sabah. Instead, it is widely shared among several communities, including the Brunei, Bisaya, Kedayan and Dusun, making it one of the foods that reflects the cultural diversity of the state.

For Kelupis entrepreneur Hamidah Ontong, 39, the traditional dish is more than just festive food, it represents a family heritage passed down through generations.

“Every time Raya comes, there must be kelupis. Without kelupis, it feels like something is missing from the Raya atmosphere. In Sabah, it has truly become a tradition. Just like in Peninsular Malaysia, if there is no ketupat or lemang during Raya, it feels the same if there is no kelupis here,” she told Bernama.

Hamidah said she began learning to prepare kelupis at the age of 17 while helping her mother make the dish for family celebrations before eventually mastering the process herself.

According to her, preparing kelupis requires patience and precision, beginning with preparing the wrapping using nyirik leaves and continuing with cooking glutinous rice mixed with coconut milk.

She said the most time-consuming part of the process is wrapping the kelupis, as each piece must be carefully wrapped and tied individually before being stored in the freezer to maintain its freshness and durability.

On average, it takes about six to seven hours to prepare around 100 pieces of kelupis, starting from preparing the glutinous rice, coconut milk and leaves to wrapping and boiling them until fully cooked.

“It takes a long time because each one must be wrapped and tied individually. Only after that do we freeze them so they can last longer,” she said.

Hamidah explained that although kelupis is often associated with the Brunei community in Sabah, the dish is also a traditional food among the Bisaya, Kedayan and Dusun communities, with slight differences in preparation and wrapping techniques.

According to her, kelupis prepared by the Brunei community are usually denser and richer in coconut milk flavour, while versions from other communities may vary slightly in texture, size, and the type of leaves used for wrapping.

However, she said the basic ingredients remain the same -- glutinous rice and coconut milk.

“Although kelupis is commonly linked to the Brunei community, it is also a traditional dish for the Bisaya, Kedayan and Dusun communities in Sabah, with minor differences in wrapping techniques, rice texture and presentation,” she said.

Apart from being a signature dish during Hari Raya, kelupis is also commonly served at various community events such as feasts, weddings, doa selamat gatherings and other local social functions.

Hamidah, who sells kelupis at RM1 per piece, said she continues to preserve her family’s traditional recipe, including using coconut milk and freshly grated coconut to ensure the dish retains its rich flavour and soft, perfectly textured glutinous rice.

-- BERNAMA