Teluk Belanga, Johor's Enduring Heritage

The Baju Melayu Teluk Belanga, more widely known as the Johor attire, is more than just traditional clothing; it is a symbol of identity deeply rooted in Johor’s heritage since the late 19th century.

Its origins trace back to the reign of the late Sultan Abu Bakar, when Johor’s administrative centre was still located in Teluk Belanga, Singapore. Historical records note that two versions of Johor attire were introduced at the time: the cekak musang style for royalty and nobility, and the Teluk Belanga style for the common people.

However, in 1982, Sultan Iskandar reshaped this distinction by abolishing class-based dress codes. He established the Baju Melayu Teluk Belanga as the official attire for all Malays in Johor, symbolising unity beyond social hierarchy.

For Jamil Sukaimi, owner of Teluk Belanga Design boutique, the garment’s uniqueness lies not only in its design but in the cultural values and etiquette it embodies.

“With this attire alone, people can recognise one’s identity. There’s no need to say where you’re from — when someone wears the Johor outfit complete with samping, songkok and proper footwear, it is immediately clear they are from Johor,” he said.

Johoreans, he added, are known for their tradition of dressing formally, especially when attending official events or performing Friday prayers.

THE ART OF ‘TULANG BELUT’ STITCHING

A defining feature of the Teluk Belanga lies in its neckline, meticulously hand-stitched using the tulang belut technique; a fine, slanted stitch that demands exceptional precision.

Authentic Johor attire also carries distinctive elements such as three pockets, pesak and kekek, along with a loose cut designed for comfort and ease of movement, particularly during prayer.

Jamil Sukaimi.

“In the past, the entire garment was sewn by hand using a method known as sembat satu badan, reflecting the remarkable craftsmanship of tailors of that era,” Jamil explained.

Another traditional technique, perenggi, once practised by the Bugis community in Benut and Pontian, has since faded into obscurity due to the lack of skilled practitioners.

Today, tulang belut stitching remains irreplaceable by machines, as its finesse can only be achieved through skilled hands. Yet, with only a limited number of experienced tailors; many aged 40 and above; concerns are growing over the future of this delicate craft.

 PASSING THE TORCH TO THE NEXT GENERATION

Efforts have been made to preserve the craft, including organising tulang belut stitching competitions in collaboration with cultural agencies. While these events attract hundreds of participants, true mastery is still largely found among the older generation.

Jamil believes such traditional skills should be taught in institutions such as community colleges and Technical and Vocational Education and Training (TVET) programmes to ensure their survival.

In terms of price, ordering a pair of Johor shirts usually starts at around RM300 depending on the type of fabric and the customer's size.

“If the younger generation does not learn, not only will tulang belut stitching disappear, other heritage elements like the songkok, capal, kompang and gasing may also fade away,” he said.

FABRIC CHOICES AND SIGNATURE BUTTONS

Beyond craftsmanship, fabric selection plays a vital role in ensuring comfort. Traditionally, cotton was favoured for its breathability in Malaysia’s tropical climate, though modern variations now include Japanese cotton, linen blends and other contemporary fabrics.

While synthetic materials like satin are occasionally used, cotton remains the preferred choice for all-day wear.

Original Johor clothes have certain characteristics such as three pockets, pockets, pockets and loose cuts that have practical functions.

A distinctive finishing touch is the use of special buttons fitted into loops known as insang pari. Once crafted from precious stones such as diamonds, today’s versions often use more affordable crystals like Swarovski or zircon.

Depending on the material, a set of buttons can cost thousands of ringgit, though Jamil offers more accessible options starting from RM90.

GLOBAL DEMAND FOR A TIMELESS ATTIRE

The appeal of the Johor attire extends beyond local borders. Orders come not only from within Malaysia but also from Singapore, Australia, Dubai and London, reflecting growing appreciation for its authenticity.

Prices typically begin at around RM300 per set, with tulang belut-stitched pieces costing slightly more; still comparatively affordable against prices in major cities like Kuala Lumpur.

Jamil has also crafted garments for notable figures, including celebrities such as Sheila Rusly and Amy Search.

FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO LASTING LEGACY

Jamil’s journey began modestly. After studying fashion design at Institut Kemahiran MARA in 1987, he honed his skills through industry training before opening a small tailoring shop.

His breakthrough came when he received an order to tailor attire for former Johor Menteri Besar Tan Sri Abdul Ghani Othman; a turning point that propelled his business forward.

Apart from sewing, the selection of fabric also plays an important role in producing comfortable Johor clothes.

Today, his creations are sought after not only for festive occasions but also for weddings, where coordinated Johor attire has become an increasingly popular theme.

Despite the rise of modern fashion such as kurtas and slim-cut designs, Jamil remains hopeful that traditional attire will endure.

“As long as people continue to appreciate traditional craftsmanship; from the tulang belut neckline to the classic cut and details; the Baju Melayu Teluk Belanga will remain a timeless heritage, never eroded by time,” he said.