Into The Heart Of Wang Kelian's Hidden Wilderness

Mention Wang Kelian and what comes to mind for many is the unsavoury activities associated with the village that lies on the Malaysia-Thailand border in Perlis.

This was the place where one of the country’s largest human trafficking syndicates was uncovered in 2015, and, to this day, it often makes headlines for less favourable reasons, particularly stories linked to smuggling activities and border security concerns.

Yet few would expect that behind this small village at the northernmost tip of Peninsular Malaysia lies a biodiversity treasure trove, home to rare wildlife species and unique plant life.

Bernama and six other media representatives recently had the opportunity to visit Kampung Wang Kelian and Pekan Kaki Bukit at the invitation of insurance company Manulife Malaysia, in collaboration with environmental non-governmental organisation (NGO) Roots and Shoots Malaysia and the Perlis State Forestry Department.

Largely inhabited by Malay, Siamese and Chinese communities, Wang Kelian and Pekan Kaki Bukit exude a rustic charm, but what really stands out are the imposing limestone mountains surrounding the area, sheltering underground waterfalls, a network of caves and endemic flora and fauna found nowhere else – quietly preserving the secrets and mysteries of bygone eras.

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TIN MINING LEGACY

The first stop for the media group’s three-day visit was Pekan Kaki Bukit, a one-and-a-half-hour journey by road from the Sultan Abdul Halim Airport in Alor Setar.

Along the way, the sweeping green padi fields and limestone hills formed a picturesque landscape. On entering the town at about 4 pm, a row of old, colourfully painted wooden shop houses came into view. The van ferrying the journalists stopped in front of a grocery shop, and tour guide Tham Ngui Long came to greet them. Tham, who is also a cave guide, is a local resident.

Introducing Pekan Kaki Bukit, he said it has a population of only 1,000, as many young people have moved to greener pastures in search of jobs.

“Most residents here run grocery stores, eateries or vehicle repair shops, opening as early as 6 am and closing between 2 pm and 3 pm,” he said.

That explained why the town seemed rather quiet, with most of the shop houses leaving only their small doors open to let in the breeze to ease the afternoon heat. But for photography enthusiasts, it was the perfect opportunity to capture these charming old shops set against the dramatic limestone hills of the Nakawan Range.

Tham also said that in the past, most of the people living in Pekan Kaki Bukit, located about 33 kilometres from Kangar, were tin miners. The town holds a rich tin-mining heritage dating back to the 19th century, with some of the mines still operating, but on a small scale.  

It was difficult to imagine that such a serene town could be linked to a wealth of protected wildlife and plant species.

“Be patient – this is just a teaser. You haven’t reached the real place yet where you’ll see them,” Tham said with a smile when asked about Pekan Kaki Bukit’s connection to biodiversity.

He said the 480-million-year-old Nakawan Range, stretching from Kuala Perlis to Wang Kelian, also holds another invaluable natural treasure: wild honey.

The group later visited a local grocery shop owned by resident Tung Chee Yoon, 43, who also sells authentic tualang honey harvested from the caves near Pekan Kaki Bukit.

“Many visitors to this town never miss the chance to bring home our honey as a souvenir because it is pure and not mixed with sugar or other substances… we preserve its natural quality,” she said.

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MATA AYER FOREST RESERVE 

On the second day of the expedition, the journalists were taken on a three-hour hike in Denai Warisan, located in the Mata Ayer Forest Reserve, led by a team from Perlis Nature Xplorer, an NGO, and the Perlis State Forestry Department. This forest reserve is part of the Perlis State Park and is located near Pekan Kaki Bukit and Wang Kelian.

Before entering the forest, they had to pass through a rubber plantation, followed by an orchard owned by a local villager.

Perlis State Forestry Department director Ag Shaffie Ag Ahmadni, who was also present, said the state’s strategic location along the Thailand border and its proximity to the Nakawan Range influence its climate, resulting in fertile soil that produces an abundance of fresh fruits, including the famed Harumanis mangoes.

“Perlis is also well known for its teak wood, branded as ‘Jati of Perlis’, which is recognised for its high quality. Our teak is exported to countries such as India and China,” he said.

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Meanwhile, Perlis Nature Xplorer founder Syamil Abd Rahman said the area around Wang Kelian, including Mata Ayer forest reserve, is home to more than 70 species of mammals, 200 species of birds and 35 species of reptiles. Among them is the rare stump-tailed macaque, locally known as beruk kentoi.

“‘Kentoi’ means ‘short-tailed’ in our local dialect. Its scientific name is Macaca arctoides,” he explained, adding, “This species is distinguished by its reddish face, and as it ages, its fur begins to thin while its skin darkens.”

He said the species was first identified here in 1992 by ecologist Datuk Dr Dionysius S.K. Sharma, but systematic monitoring only began in 2017.

Unlike other primates that prefer swinging from tree to tree, stump-tailed macaques spend much of their time on the ground, moving in groups.

“Wang Kelian is the only place in the world with dedicated road-crossing signs for the beruk kentoi (to alert motorists to look out for monkeys crossing the road),” he said, adding that the species was also the mascot for Visit Perlis Year 2024-2025.

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Syamil added that besides the beruk kentoi, Wang Kelian is also a habitat for several hornbill species. Visitors often hear their calls before catching sight of them flying overhead or perched among the trees.

“Their loud calls and sound of their wings flapping echo through the forest, signalling that this forest is still alive and thriving,” he said.

The hornbills are also known as the ‘farmers of the forest’ because when they feed on fruits and fly from tree to tree, they help disperse seeds throughout the forest, allowing new trees to grow, he added.

NIGHT SAFARI

The highlight of the expedition was the much-anticipated two-hour night safari in the Mata Air Forest Reserve, which allowed the participating journalists to travel in buggies to observe wildlife species that are active after dark.

(The night safari is a Perlis tourism product and conducted by Perlis Nature Xplorer and Tham, with Syamil and Perlis Nature Xplorer co-founder Daniel Azizan serving as guides.)

According to Daniel, the true magic of the area reveals itself at night, when wild animals emerge in search of food.

At intervals, the buggies stopped by the roadside as Syamil signalled the presence of wildlife, illuminated by his flashlight.

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“Look, there’s a kongkang, or Sunda slow loris in English,” he said at one of the stops. “It is a nocturnal primate with large eyes and moves silently at night.”

Daniel explained that the species is often hunted for its eyes, which are believed to have medicinal value, placing the animal on the endangered species list.

The group also spotted the red giant flying squirrel, another one of Wang Kelian’s iconic species. While it may appear to fly like a bat, it actually glides through the forest using a special skin membrane known as a patagium.

“This membrane acts like a natural cloak stretched between its limbs, allowing it to glide accurately from one tree to another,” Daniel said.

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HERITAGE TRAIL

Over the last three years, beginning in 2024, Manulife Malaysia, in collaboration with Roots and Shoots Malaysia and the Perlis State Forestry Department, has been involved in efforts to protect Wang Kelian and the surrounding area’s rich diversity and strengthen ecotourism activities.

Their programme focuses on restoring the 36-kilometre Denai Warisan (Heritage Trail) – stretching from Kampung Wang Kelian to Pekan Kaki Bukit through the Mata Ayer Forest Reserve – and training the local residents to become nature guides, as well as providing entrepreneurship and financial literacy training to help the local community to benefit from tourism development.

The trail is already open to tourists and has the potential to become a popular ecotourism product.

Head of Education and Outreach at Roots and Shoots Malaysia Peter Ong said ecotourism would benefit Wang Kelian’s local economy, while also attracting more tourists to experience its natural beauty and wildlife habitats, with the area serving as a pit stop in Perlis before travellers head to Thailand.

“The village population is ageing, and more young people are migrating to cities in search of better opportunities to improve their lives. However, not many are willing to return and revitalise the area.

“Programmes like ours not only elevate Wang Kelian as an ecotourism destination, but also create job opportunities for young people to develop their potential in their own hometown and help drive the local economy,” he said.

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Manulife Holdings Bhd Group chief executive officer  and  Manulife Insurance Bhd chief executive officer, Vibha Coburn said the collaboration is aligned with the Manulife Impact Agenda, which focuses on, among others, environmental sustainability and inclusive economic opportunities.

She said in the first year of their collaboration, comprehensive restoration efforts were carried out on the Heritage Trail, transforming it into a hub for ecotourism and environmental education.

“Funding from Manulife will also enable biodiversity surveys and the creation of dedicated flora and fauna zones, supported by educational signage to raise environmental awareness among visitors.

“This initiative reflects our shared vision of empowering local communities while preserving our natural heritage,” she added.