Sabah is home to over 3.91 million people from 35 ethnic groups and 217 sub-ethnicities. Each community has its own language, customs and traditions as well as attire, with each garment’s weave reflecting the history, customs and spirit of its people.
However, preserving Sabah’s diverse ethnic costumes is no easy task, especially in a fast-paced modern world filled with external influences, including the fashion trends of pop culture.
Fortunately, some young Sabahans are deeply passionate about preserving their heritage and are actively working to revive nearly forgotten fabrics and bring new life to their traditional garments.
DEDICATED
One such person is Mohammad Adzri Barti Bahang, a Bajau youth who specialises in sewing all types of Sabah ethnic wear.
Operating from a rented shop in a shopping complex in Penampang here, the 24-year-old was busy embroidering a piece of black velvet cloth when Bernama met him. He completed each stitch skilfully and with full concentration, pausing occasionally to wipe the beads of sweat trickling down his forehead.
Ari is now determined to take a different path from other friends, which is to sew traditional clothes.
Mohammad Adzri is a man on a mission to revive Sabah’s heritage attire and it is people like him who are making sure the state’s traditions don’t end up in museums or history books.
This young man and his ilk are not only keeping their ethnic clothing alive but also passing on to others the soul and stories behind each garment.
Mohammad Adzri’s fascination with Sabah traditional attire began eight years ago when he started assisting in his family’s business of sewing and selling traditional garments.
“We used to sell the clothes at the weekly market in Penampang… I also used to work part-time in other places when we didn’t have many orders. It was then I realised I was more interested in sewing, so from there, I decided to continue the family legacy,” he told Bernama.
For him, the biggest challenge in creating traditional clothing is meeting requests from customers to modify the attire to give it a modern twist.
IDENTITY
However, in his endeavour to preserve the identity of his state’s traditional wear, he feels it is essential for him to respect the traditions and customs of every ethnic group. Hence, he is always cautious with customer requests for modifications, especially from the younger generation who may not fully understand the importance of preserving the authenticity of traditional attire.
“When I get an order for a traditional outfit, I’ve to carefully consider the design requested by my customer because in the case of certain traditional garments (we cannot change their original design because) the authenticity of their identity has to be maintained,” he said, adding that since opening his shop in Penampang in 2018, he has been receiving a steady stream of customers comprising locals and foreigners.
The main challenge most faced is the demand from customers who want a traditional dress design that has been changed into a more modern one.
“We have even received orders for traditional attire from Sabahans living in China and Australia,” he said, showing a picture of a customer from Australia wearing a traditional Kadazan outfit he had sewn.
Sabah traditional attire researcher and journalist Ersie Anjumin, 39, meanwhile, urged the young generation to get a better understanding of the definition of traditional attire.
She believes the lack of understanding has caused this group to experience an identity crisis which “is making it difficult for us to preserve our traditional clothing”.
“The current trend to modify traditional outfits to be more fashionable may potentially lead to confusion,” she said.
She said society should be aware that when traditional attire is modernised, it removes the cultural values embedded in the authentic version.
Nevertheless, she feels that drawing inspiration from traditional clothing for contemporary fashion is a positive step, provided it is done correctly with the right knowledge as well as respect.
Ersie also encouraged Sabah youths to dig deeper into the history of their respective ethnic wear, pointing out that sometimes, “there’s an untold story behind an attire.”
She also suggested that programmes such as workshops, seminars and exhibitions related to traditional attire be actively organised to ensure that knowledge about Sabah’s ethnic clothing reaches a broader audience.
The importance of preserving cultural heritage can also be disseminated through social media platforms and participation in cultural events like ‘Unduk Ngadau Kaamatan’ (beauty pageant for women), ‘Buvazoi Tavantan’ (Mr Kaamatan contest) and ‘Sugandoi’, she added.
“While the ‘Unduk Ngadau’ competition, which requires contestants to dress in authentic traditional attire, is gaining popularity among the younger generation, they still need to have a deeper understanding of the essential elements of traditional wear that are often overlooked.
“There are some young people who are excited to wear traditional clothing but lack an understanding of its value and the proper way to wear it. Therefore, effective initiatives are needed to address this issue,” she said.
SHOWCASE TRADITIONAL ATTIRE
Yap Ken Vun, 35, whose photo of him wearing a traditional Kadazandusun outfit at the 2024 Paris Olympics went viral on social media, said young Sabahans should proudly display their traditional costumes.
Yap, who is from Tenom and works as a human resources executive at a manufacturing company, feels the younger generation should actively promote and showcase Sabah's diverse cultures to the international community.
“I’m an avid sports fan and I was willing to spend money to support the Malaysian contingent in Paris. My main reason for wearing traditional Sabah attire was to do something different. I took this opportunity to introduce our traditional outfit to the public,” he said.
For Rivayida Mohd Ravai, 47, who is from the Rungus ethnic group, parental influence is important in fostering love and pride in traditional attire and culture among the younger generation.
“Parents need to instill into their children a sense of love for our ancestral identity and traditions.
“For example, in the Rungus community which is skilled in beadwork, we pass down that knowledge to our younger generation. I believe many young people are eager to learn but lack encouragement or exposure,” she said.
Rivayida, a government employee, also supports initiatives promoting Sabah’s rich ethnic identities and cultures, including traditional crafts, clothing and dances.
“Our society must unite in preserving the ethnic heritage of our ancestors… it is a priceless legacy belonging to human civilization, especially in a state rich in ethnic diversity,” she added.
